Shopping in Kyoto, Tokyo

Tokyo may be the capital of but Kyoto is the country's cultural and artistic heart, with traditional shops dedicated to particular crafts. Many are family owned, some having provided shoppers with a unique glimpse of history for 10 generations.

Shoyeido (Karasuma-dori, Nijo-agaru, Nakagyo-ku, tel: 81 75 212 5590) is 's oldest incense-making company. You'll have no problem finding the shop: just follow the delicate sandalwood fragrance to the treasure trove of incense sticks, cones, coils and wood-chips. Shoyeido's master blenders use centuries-old recipes from the Imperial Palace passed down through 12 generations of the same family. The refined incense is unique, thanks to the family's insistence on using the finest natural products and hand-preparing each blend. Exquisitely designed incense stands cost from 500 yen each ($32.50). The uninitiated should try the Incense Trial Set (1,500 yen), which includes three sticks each of 10 different fragrances. A box of 20 sticks of the same fragrance costs 800 yen.

Look no further for Zen-like beauty than the many Yojiya cosmetics shops (see www.yojiya.com for locations). It was an absolute mad house the last time I was there so you’ll have to elbow your way past droves of Japanese women to stock up on Yojiya's most famous product, Aburatorigami, the secret to a perfect matt complexion. The velvety oil-blotting facial paper was originally used by geishas and now holds cult status in (3,360 yen for 10 booklets containing 20 sheets each). Yojiya's deep moisturising travel hand cream is an excellent buy at 400 yen.
 

Protect yourself from the midday sun or showers with a beautifully decorated umbrella (wagasa) from Tsujikura (Shijo-agaru, Kawaramachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku, tel: 81 75 221 4396). The bamboo and paper umbrel-las are made in Kyoto by master craftsmen and are available in small sizes for children (4,000 yen) as well as vast, decorative versions worthy of a hotel foyer. Prices rise according to size and intricacy of decoration, but a medium-sized umbrella costs no more than 6,000 yen. Tsujikura also sells an impressive range of handmade paper lanterns, from traditional round items to more contemporary styles by Osamu Noguchi. Children will love the miniature toy lanterns and umbrellas, which make inter-esting souvenirs and cost less than 1,000 yen.

Next, head for the hallowed halls of Miyawaki Baisen-an (Tomino-koji, Nishi-iru, Rokkaku-dori, Nakagyo-ku, tel: 81 75 221 0439), which has been making Japanese fans since 1823. This is not a shop for the budget con-scious, with prices starting at 3,000 yen and specially decorated fans costing from several hundred thousand yen - but the quality is outstanding.

For a unique buy, visit the indigo-dyeing workshop of Aizen Kobo (Nakasuji-Omiya Nishi, Yoko-omiyacho, Kamigyo-ku, tel: 81 75 441 0355). Aizen Kobo uses traditional Japanese methods to achieve intense blue dyes and is the acknowledged world specialist in this time-consuming hand-dyeing technique. Levi's has sent observers to learn from this master, and the British Museum has a collection of his works. Although larger items are expensive, the indigo colours never fade. A decorated noren (a traditional split-curtain hung in doorways) costs from 150,000 yen, while a kimono-style jacket costs from 300,000 yen. The shop also sells a range of smaller items such as table-mats (3,000 yen each) and toy animals (1,000 yen each).

 

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